The celebratory side of fragrance is something I’ve covered often when writing about perfume, and it always goes hand in hand with a desire to make memories. The link between scent and recollection is well documented, so it’s hardly surprising that companies turn to this olfactive format when wanting to cement an occasion or even a location. New fragrances that centre around a brand’s journey or particular milestones are a great way to recognise loyalty, but the perfume also has to stand on its own. 312 Saint-Honoré from bdk Parfums is the perfect example of scented celebration meeting stylish sophistication.
Our lives often seem to be centred around finding “the one”, whether that be the perfect relationship, the ideal job, or your forever home. But the concept of “the one” also extends to perfume. There is still a fashion for hunting out a “signature” scent, that is one that you’ll be instantly recognised for wearing. I’m sure there have been times when you’ve known who is about to walk into the room before you see them because of their fragrance. However, with so many perfumes to choose from, where do you begin? Well, Ruth Mastenbroek has given you the perfect starting point with her aptly named Signature.
What makes an interesting and original perfume? It’s the question that I get asked most often, and one that companies constantly strive to realise in every new release. In a market that is over-saturated with launches, and chock-a-block with “trends” that often seem to merely be a rehash of previous ideas, uncovering that elusive point of difference is vital if your perfume is going to stand out from the competition. One of the ways that a new slant can be thrown on scent is when its country of origin is not what you’d expect, and that’s exactly what’s on offer with Printemps from Organ Tale.
Simplicity in scent is something that's often attempted by the perfume industry but, with the exception of companies like Shay & Blue or 4711’s Acqua Colonia collection, results can be quite linear and uninspiring. The complexity of traditional methods ends up being replaced with single notes, or a blend of similar aromas, so there isn’t any excitement in the finished fragrance. One of the companies that have managed to embrace “simplicity” but also still retain “style” is Obvious Parfums. With the moto that their fragrances are “simple, sophisticated and respectful”, it’s time to discover the distinctly different Un Patchouli.
The question of how a perfume company can expand its range, and at the same time potentially attract a new set of customers, is one that every brand has to eventually ask itself. It’s very easy to continue in exactly the same vein, especially if you’re experiencing success, but this can also actually limit a company’s overall growth. If you’re famous for exceptional extrait strength perfumes then the obvious route is to move into the more affordable Eau de Parfum concentration, but this needs to be done sensitively. One company that has achieved this seamlessly is Widian, and their Almond fragrance is absolutely delicious.
The second perfume that a company releases is often the hardest to truly crack, because you’re riding on the success of the first but trying to stretch your creative horizons. Finding the middle ground in the battle between being too safe and too divergent becomes the scented goal. There have been many examples of the follow-up fragrance not hitting the mark, and so hearing that Leonie Sherif was releasing Twilight, her second fragrance, brought feelings of excitement and trepidation in equal measure. This songbird is no stranger to experimenting with musical chords, but would the perfumed ones be just as accommodating?
Whether you’re thinking about music, film, theatre or perfume, there are certain examples in every genre that demand to be referenced as the ultimate interpretation. This can be because they have captured the public’s imagination, maybe won the applause of the critics, but ultimately they stand alone on a pedestal. When it comes to perfume, there is arguably only one ingredient that truly bucks this trend. Oud has been a mainstay of the fragrance market since 2007, but its tenacity has made it challenging for many. It would take fourteen years for its heart to be truly revealed, and that was in Silky Woods from Goldfield & Banks.
Alternative spins on established styles are one way that the perfume industry continues to reinvent itself with each new release. Whether this is a particular fragrance family, a worldwide bestseller, or even a specific ingredient focus, it’s the new presentation of something which has a familiarity that often grabs the attention of customers above a wholly new idea. There are few perfume inspirations that haven’t been done in one way or another other in the past, but the new Artemis from Soki London absolutely lives up to the well-known adage that “if you go down to the woods today, you’re sure of a big surprise.”
When we talk about luxury fragrances the focus is often firmly fixed on the rarity of ingredients, the limited quantity produced, and even the perfumer behind the scent. It all goes to create that appearance of luxury, and to explain the price that is usually attached to the perfume. However, the other way to simulate luxury is to align with an existing luxurious product. Whether that’s a celebrity, a destination, or a clothing brand, their kudos brings an established and dedicated following. This was the route that Bentley took when they entered the perfume market, and their latest fragrance Become continues the experience.
